Culinary Adventure

When one thinks of Ireland, one can’t help but picture sheep, green meadows, butter and St. Patrick’s Day. The island is also known for good whisky and inedible stew. But part of the appeal of hunting in foreign lands is that you get a sense of the culture, the landscape, and the people that is totally different from what is portrayed in the travel guides. The hunter is right in the middle of things, experiencing everything first-hand instead of through the windows of a tour bus or a hotel room. Hunting means experiencing, feeling and understanding. But what can you hunt in Ireland?

Although most people probably haven’t given it so much as a passing thought, Ireland has a good population of sika deer. Even those who have never hunted this species know that its venison counts amongst the tastiest in the world. This stands in direct opposition to the prejudice against Irish cuisine. Traditional Irish stew consists mainly of mutton or lamb with a simple complement of potatoes, onions and parsley. To many, this is not a particularly mouth-watering combination. As to the landscape, the hunting area in County Kerry resembles that of neighboring Scotland: bleak hills and rugged cliffs where the weather is variable and, perhaps more precisely, unstable. But that is part of the attraction. Unpredictable environmental influences in breathtaking landscapes filled with fascinating game animals will quicken the pulse of any red-blooded hunter.

That is how Ireland greets its guests. Rain and wind battle for supremacy, but they can be managed from within the walls of a warm cottage. Tomorrow we start the hunt. Water is the dominant element that accompanies the hunter from day to day. Whether because of rain from heaven or one of the countless crystal-clear brooks that bubble into the valleys, wet is a permanent state of being. Shoes and jackets may dry, but memories remain forever. The stalking guide leads his hunting clients into the back country. It quickly becomes clear that the ascent is pushing the clients to the edge of their endurance. Here and there are a few paths and trails that have been well worn by sheep and goats, which the hunters then follow. They then cross through fields of heather. Since avoiding puddles is impossible, their feet are soaked in no time, but the exertion of the ascent keeps the hunters warm. Sika deer have excellent eyesight and the terrain offers little concealment. This means that the hunters will have to take long shots averaging 200 meters. Rifle and optics must not only bear up against wind and weather, but they also must perform with precision under difficult conditions.

It is now October and the rut is in full swing. The stags can be made to stand still with a game call. Its sound is that of a high-pitched squeaking reminiscent of that of the American wapiti. The grey-brown coat of the sika blends perfectly with the stalks of heather. Often, the only way to spot a deer is when it moves. As the morning sun breaks through the grey clouds, four sika appear 300 meters in front of the hunters and shake off the rain. “Let’s try and stalk a bit closer,” murmurs Tim the stalking guide to his client, Jan. Hunting is the same everywhere: Approach unseen, find a firing point and wait for a chance to shoot. Every hunter must instinctively master both rifle and optics. At the given time, a young stag topples into the dripping moss. With their first success in a strange land, the tensions of the hunters rise to a feverish pitch. The joy at bagging the fallen prey is great and the relief is shared by all. Guide and shooter are now united by this shared experience. “Let’s field dress it and carry it down into the valley,” suggests Tim.

Field-dressing and recovery demand a good bit of muscle power. Thanks to an ice-cold stream, there is running water for the field-expedient cleaning of hands and hunting knife. Now the game must be carried to the cottage. Chef Philip’s eyes light up as he peeks into the cold storage. He is already running the many culinary possibilities for this piece of game through his head. He has made it his goal to help his guests experience as much authentic Irish cuisine as possible by means of this tasty piece of venison.

“It’s a shame that Irish game recipes
are not well known beyond the borders of Ireland.”

He has thought of one specialty per day, including the notorious stew. As he reveals his plan to the guests, they raise their eyebrows warily at the grim prospects. But the smell of the preparation of the spicy venison paired with the other ingredients quickly wipes the doubt from the hunters’ faces. After a wet and strenuous hunting day, the hearty stew hits the spot for the hunters and they dig into it with gusto. For tomorrow they will return to stalking the Irish highlands once again.

Irish Sika Stew

Ingredients for four servings:

• 800 g sika venison, shoulder cut
• 5 Tbsp. oil
• 1 onion
• 1 clove garlic
• 300 g carrots
• 1 celery root
• 1/4 head white cabbage
• 150 g leeks
• 1 liter beef broth
• 250 g potatoes
• 1 Tbsp. chopped parsley
• 1 pinch caraway seed
• 1 pinch thyme
• Nutmeg
• Salt and pepper

Preparation

Approx. 30 minutes

1. Cut sika meat into medium-sized cubes
2. Cut onion into strips. Peel carrots, celeriac and potatoes and cut into small cubes (set one whole potato aside); cut cabbage and leeks into large pieces.
3. Sauté meat in heated oil. Add onions, pressed garlic, and all vegetables except the potatoes, then simmer together. Pour broth over the mixture and season to taste with caraway seed, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
4. Cook for one hour at low heat. Add potato cubes and cook for another 15 minutes. Grate the whole potato you set aside and fold it into the stew shortly before serving. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.